The remote and rugged landscape of the Torto valley is swept with extreme weather patterns which at vintage time can often mitigate a successful harvest... but not this year. Uncharacteristically, harvesting in 2008 was a study in smiles!
The usual mix of rain and cooling temperatures made a brief appearance in early September but then stayed away for the remainder of the month and most of October. Daytime temperatures were also moderate never creeping above 27 Celsius for long.
All this had a very beneficial effect on the end of season picking. Firstly Morale was high. Nothing produces vintage stress paranoia quite like rain – or the threat of it and amongst the pickers smiles were conspicuous and long lasting. They were even heard to burst into song occasionally. Secondly, it meant that work-rate was up and consequently the picking was over in 2 days rather than 3. This again brought smiles to our faces. The thought of lower field costs is a great smile-maker and a 30% saving translates into a big smile! We finished picking at Macedos on the 21st September.
And what about the wines, you may ask? Again, although total yields at Macedos were 15% down on last year, there were many reasons to be cheerful.
Firstly, maturation was remarkably consistent across the vineyard. The traditional mixed "field blend" vines at Macedos aren't always conducive to this but we picked 14 separate lots this year and all were within 1 degree BRIX. This helps greatly in the later blending stages. Also things tended towards a later harvest than we normally expect. We can find clues to this in the spring and early summer weather. April and May were wetter and June cooler. Both our Roriz and Touriga had more hang time (7 days) to ripen sufficiently.
Secondly, during fermentation the colour was deep and glossy and natural acidity levels were nicely balanced in the must wine. Our wines ferment naturally without inoculation, which can give rise to differing fermentation rates. No such anxieties this year. Fermentations were prompt and gradual. Only the Rose needed cooling.
Initial impressions after fermentation are very positive. The pressed wines show concentration and purity of fruit, great freshness and a wonderful ripe tannic component. We can only wait for the end of Malolactic in December to see if this early promise is sustained.
All this makes me feel that 2008 could possibly be a very good year in the Torto. You can never be sure of anything in this current turbulent time but more than any promised future dividend cheque, this can only bring a smile to one's face!
António Lima Costa, (President of the City Hall of São João da Pesqueira), Frederic Blasé (Quebec), Tom and Derek (Port Forum-UK), Mina and Antonio & friends (Lady Dreams Distribution- Porto), David Eley (Agoodnose-France), Ze Manuel (Quinta das Cabanas-Torto) Graeme, Bernard, Tom, Nigel and Chris ("Lafeet" Team), Martin and Janet (Algarve).
December 5th with tasting notes on all our 2008 Wines together with an update of forthcoming 2009 releases.